Our 2023 Road Trip #16: Farewell Beach Romp

me on a white beach by the ocean, wearing off-white shorts and an Atomic Robo T-shirt.

If I wrote books, this would be a contender for my author photo.

Previously on Midlife Crisis Crossover:

Every year since 1999 Anne and I have taken one road trip to a different part of the United States and seen attractions, wonders, and events we didn’t have back home. From 1999 to 2003 we did so as best friends; from 2004 to the present, as husband and wife. After years of contenting ourselves with everyday life in Indianapolis and any nearby places that also had comics and toy shops, we overcame some of our self-imposed limitations and resolved as a team to leave the comforts of home for annual chances to see creative, exciting, breathtaking, outlandish, historical, and/or bewildering new sights in states beyond our own. We’re the Goldens. This is who we are and what we do.

For 2023 it was time at last to venture to the Carolinas, the only southern states we hadn’t yet visited, with a focus on the city of Charleston, South Carolina. Considering how many battlefields we’d toured over the preceding years, the home of Fort Sumter was an inevitable addition to our experiential collection…

Whenever other people travel to South Carolina — especially the hotspots of, say, Hilton Head or Myrtle Beach — they enjoy lounging in the chairs they brought along, chugging all the alcohol in sight, flirting with anyone and everyone in sight who’s doing the same, and/or frolicking willy-nilly while shouting, “BEACH! BEACH! BEACH! BEACH! BEACH!” The two of us figured out years ago we aren’t beach people.

Sure, we’ve walked around a few, just so we could say we’d tried them. In 2007, my very first time ever laying eyes upon a real live ocean, a severe thunderstorm chased us off Cocoa Beach. The following year, we approached Virginia Beach on a perfect summer day. We came, we saw, we wandered, we made feeble sculptures, and we wondered, “Is that it?” In 2015 we learned at Mississippi’s Harrison County Sand Beach that it’s pretty fun to have a beach all to yourself for goofing around at 8 in the morning, but it still wasn’t somewhere we wanted to linger, burn, and watch skin cancers manifest in real time.

By our final South Carolina morning we’d hit all the primary objectives on our vacation to-do list and figured, hey, the Atlantic Ocean was still right there. It’s famous and massive and it’s not like we’ve seen all of it yet, so maybe one walk on a beach couldn’t hurt and might not even bore us. Our tour of Fort Sumter had thrown in a few sandbars for free, but that wasn’t a certified beach-beach, with umbrellas and volleyball and concession stands and lifeguards and one-percenter hotels obscuring half the horizons around us. For our last hurrah in the Charleston vicinity, Anne picked us a beach from among the numerous options that we could check out before we had to leave town and begin the long trip back northwest toward duller, smoggier climes.

After breakfast we headed out to Isle of Palms Beach, which you don’t really notice is on an island unless you stare at all the adjacent waterways really hard when you’re driving and do the geographic math in your head…or, I guess, pay closer attention while you were mapping your trip. No one told us there’d been a mass shooting at the beach not even three months prior to our visit, but I don’t know that we desperately needed to know that anyway.

Much happier random sights on the way to and from the beach:

lightbox with seawater painted on it, on a city street.

Seawater lightbox.

lightbox on city street, painted with giant swimming sea turtle across two sides.

Sea turtle lightbox.

statue next to a nice hotel with three large sea turtles stacked on each other.

One of six turtles statues in the area by local artist Scott Penegar.

a line of palmettos next to a parking lot.

We arrived fifteen minutes after they opened and got a great parking space near the front.

We were surprised to find dozens of folks already set up and soaking in the rays. Kids sauntered around, a couple of whom swore they totally saw a dolphin. A lone metal-detector wielder had all the loose change and pirate treasures to himself. We found no gift shops or any real commerce on or along the beach itself, as the whole place is officially just a county park. We did note structures to that effect down the street, but we’d already met our souvenir quotas anyway.

Sign in the middle of coastal greenery proclaiming "Sea Turtles Nest Here" and stating lots of rules of conduct.

Signs swear they had live turtles, but we never spotted a single one, much like our Yellowstone experience and its zero bears.

Several palmettos obscuring any view of the beach beyond, plus a few tiny buildings or booths.

Another line of pre-ocean palmettos.

distant ocean and beach past a deck staircase in the foreground and a playground not far off.

We found a pair of unoccupied second-story deck chairs, sat for a while and gazed upon the distant beach before approaching.

beach with a couple dozen visitors dotted around.

Behold: beach.

Faraway long pier off a nice beach.

Obligatory pier.

tiny waves along a deserted beach

Tiny waves, not the best surfing conditions.

Random footprints in sand.

Footprints of walkers who may or may not have been carrying others.

red and yellow flag on a yellow pyramid base warning all, "No swimming between this point and the pier". The pier is way back. No water in the foreground, just sand.

The red-and-yellow flag identifies which sand we should not swim in. Mr. Metal Detector is over at far left.

seashells on beach.

We see seashells on the seashore.

Buildings next to beach, beyond a plot of grass.

Some of the places we couldn’t afford to stay.

Several cacti surrounded by beach grass.

Cacti off to the side.

beach with people on it. Sunny day.

The far end of the beach opposite the pier.

freighter on the Atlantic Ocean, far from the beach in the haze.

We saw no dolphins or turtles, just this freighter.

Anne with sun hat, smiling on the beach with the Atlantic Ocean behind her.

Anne’s turn to pose with the Atlantic for the folks back home.

After we’d had our fill of beach, we braked for one last sight before departing. We wandered over to nearby Sullivan Island, a residential area whose distinguishing features include still more palmettos and yard signs protesting the presence of timeshares in their neighborhood, venting concerns about their pricey community being downgraded by rotating tourists. Many a traveler before us have noted one particular house bears a striking resemblance to Luke Skywalker’s childhood home on Tatooine, arguably too close for coincidence. Photos of it are plentiful online, but it’s private property and not open to visitors. Online records indicate it last sold years ago for $4 million, but it’s worth nearly twice that in today’s economy.

It took us a few tries to spot it, obscured by several trees as well as a giant utility or delivery truck in the driveway. We didn’t want to park and disturb all those homeowning yard-sign protestors, so we did the best we could without stopping.

Geodesic home shaped like Skywalker House, blocked by palmettos and truck.

A long way from Tosche Station.

Meanwhile back home in Indiana, the skies above our state were wrecked. Fun ironic trivia: on this very day in history and some of the days before and after it, Canadian wildfires had run rampant and caused so much destruction that unprecedented waves of smoke crossed the border, plowed through Michigan and turned our Hoosier skies to nigh unbreathable, apocalyptic ruins. Smog is not a common Midwest sight (I did see some once above Louisville back in the ’80s), but its noxious presence was all the rage on our Facebook feeds, to the regret of family and friends who weren’t out of town.

So it looks like we picked the right day to hit the beach.

To be continued!

* * * * *

[Link enclosed here to handy checklist for other chapters and for our complete road trip history to date. Follow us on Facebook or via email sign-up for new-entry alerts, or over on BlueSky if you want to track my faint signs of life between entries. Thanks for reading!]

Anne and me smiling into camera while sitting in deck chairs.

Deck chair selfie!


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