The October 2023 Birthday Trip, Part 2 of 6: Welcome to Oldenburg

A large convent that looks like two 19th-century churches in a row.

The Convent and Academy of the Immaculate Conception, built in the 1890s. Tours available only by appointment, which we didn’t have.

Previously on Midlife Crisis Crossover:

In addition to our annual road trips, my wife Anne and I have a twice-yearly tradition of spending our birthdays together, usually traveling to some new place or attraction as a short-term road trip — partly as an excuse to spend time together on those most wondrous days, partly to explore areas we’ve never experienced before. That’s every May for me and every October for her. We’re the Goldens. It’s who we are and what we do.

Anne knew what she wanted to do for this year’s birthday outing way back in July: see Patrick Stewart live on stage in Cincinnati. As previously recounted, we landed fourth-row seats and had a wonderful time. But Admiral Shakespeare’s grand tour wasn’t the only thing we did that weekend. Friday on our way from Indianapolis to Cincy we spent the afternoon in the Hoosier town of Oldenburg, where German roots run deep and our curiosity abounded. The two of us met in 1987 in high school German class. We can get sentimental sometimes when we’re reminded of that…

The town’s origins date back to 1837, when two speculators from the original Oldenburg in Germany bought land from a Virginia farmer who’d gotten there first. The duo drew up plans for a small community; other German immigrants joined them and founded its earliest establishments — its first church, a post office, a monastery, a convent, et al. Over time this new Oldenburg would amass a higher-than-average number of spires compared to the average Hoosier town, as expressed in their official three-spired crest that popped up here and there throughout our walk. The map that the Brat Haus waitress gave us was an unexpected and rather detailed surprise in annotating the various features and flourishes hither and yon. We’re not quite architecture geeks, but the brochure was a useful guide for our stroll around this pleasant autumn day.

A main street lined with numerous old buildings, some with spires.

The view down Hauptstrasse, including some of their spire collection.

A red street sign for Main Street a.k.a. Hauptstrasse, and a streetlight banner billing Oldenburg as "The Village of Spires".

All street signs were in English and German, as was the two-sided Willkommen/Auf Wiedersehen sign at the town’s southern edge.

Historical marker detailing Oldenburg's origins, some of which I recapped earlier.

“Previously on ‘Oldenburg’…”

A tall white post with pointer-signs listing mileages to other places worldwide such as the original Oldenburg (4,236 mi.), Tokyo (6,512 mi.), and "Carter's House" (500 feet), among others.

Still more signage provides useful travel data, especially if you’ve made plans with Carter.

A red-and-yellow maypole in the middle of a town park, standing on a concrete circle with two benches and a few night lights. Eight signs are hung upon it, and a circle on top appears made up like a wreath.

The town maypole (“der Maibaum”) has its own little park on the other side of a stone-banked creek. Red and yellow are the official town colors, apropos of Germany.

A brick wall with a metal gate opened up to a patio with bushes, table, patio umbrella, chairs and trees, In the distance is a lone, tall factory smokestack jutting into the horizon.

A garden gate to a pleasant scene. We don’t know the story behind that giant smokestack in the distance, which I don’t think counts as a spire.

A colorful rooster sculpture standing in front of a restaurant called Wagner's Village Inn.

A colorful rooster stands guard at Wagner’s Village Inn, one of Oldenburg’s other restaurants If you want McDonald’s or Subway, it’s a 2½-mile drive to neighboring Batesville.

Their World War I memorial is a concrete cross erected in 1948. Inscribed on the top bar in German: "Wer ausharrt bis aus Ende wird felig."

Their dedicated WWI memorial. The top bar reads, “Whoever endures until the end will be blessed.”

A large Greco-Roman tombstone in a mulched lawn. It bears the town crest, the seals of each of America's five Armed Forces, and an inscription marking its 2012 dedication and the town's 175th anniversary. At the bottom it reads, "Dedicated to those who served: God, Duty, Honor, Country".

The town’s more general Armed Forces memorial.

A small stone marker in a lawn inscribed, "Oldenburg Elementary Time Capsule. Buried July 4, 1987; to be opened 2037."

A school time capsule, to be opened shortly after my 65th birthday and our final mortgage payment (Lord willing).

Worm's-eye view of a Gothic Revival church with a very tall steeple. Sunrays enter the shot from the right.

Holy Family Church was constructed circa 1862. Original pastor Franz Joseph Rudolph is interred in a crypt underneath.

A modest Nativity set against the church wall. Bushes are in front of it; in front of those are red and yellow flowers.

Features on the church grounds include pretty flowers and a Nativity set.

Mural on the side of a brick building with the Oldenburg crest, local business signs, and citizens from various professions (sports, science, drama, clergy, etc.).

A mural celebrates the citizens and their legacies.

Local IGA grocery sign. called both The Village Store and Der Kleinstadt Laden.

The mural is on the side of their IGA, which of course has bilingual signage.

A white building with a blue roof. One end has a sign for TAPROOM; the other end has a glass door for the Oldenburg Police Department.

On the other side of the highway, the town police share a building with a brewery tap room.

Gift shop on the first floor of a two-story ordinary house. The sign calls it Die Goldene Schildkröte Handelszentrum. Fence decor includes a German flag and list of products inside.

For a few minutes of window shopping we ducked into the Golden Turtle Trading Center, whose wares were 90% clothing and 10% tourist souvenirs.

Two pairs of lederhosen, one black and one yellow, on hangers hooked on a doorway jamb and a tall purple shelf respectively.

Couldn’t tell you the last time we visited a store carrying bona fide lederhosen…

A round oak table with one pair of boys' lederhosen and several German girls' dresses.

…for all ages. They also had a wide selection of German hats to go with the lederhosen.

A high shelf with beer steins in several intricate designs.

Beer steins for sale, natürlich.

To be continued! Other chapters in this very special miniseries:


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